What to Expect at the Los Angeles Brewing Company

Zagat
By Merrill Shindler

Now, how many times have we written that the revival of Downtown is hitting its stride at last? And how many more times will we write those words in the future? For even though the formerly (and still occasionally) blighted streets of Downtown are a destination for many, they still aren't a destination for all. But it keeps getting closer - especially with the opening of the instantly jammed Umamicatessen on 9th and Broadway - and two weeks later with the launch of the Los Angeles Brewing Company on 8th and Broadway featuring beer, sliders, a great pineapple upside-down cake and more:

The Space

Carved out of a building that dates back more than a century, LA Brewing is a dramatic space, with a ceiling that seems to ripple, a mezzanine reached by marble and wrought iron stairs, a bar long enough to accommodate 100 beer taps - and many secrets. There's also a door downstairs that was welded shut, and when it was opened, it revealed a tunnel built during Prohibition - no doubt to smuggle in illicit hooch. Upstairs, the dining room is spacious - and filled all day long, often offering a wait of an hour or more at prime time. The good news is while you wait, there are dozens of big screens on which to watch the (many) games of the moment.

The Food

Both beer-friendly, and family friendly, the menu is reasonably priced (most dishes are $10 or less) and accessible, with options like hand cut garlic fries with a lemon aïoli for dipping; hot wings flavored with Argentinean spices and topped with crumbles of Maytag blue cheese; sliders on Hawaiian sweet rolls; a vegan pappardelle Bolognese -and for dessert, brownies made with stout, and an individual pineapple upside-down cake with vanilla ice cream.

The Drinks

Though there's a full bar here with bartenders who can create all the drinks you might need, LA Brewing is all about its beers, featuring 100 on tap, with a list that runs (for a change) from the deeply obscure, to the sort of brews loved by regular folks. Think everything from Lost Coast Brewery Great White and Goose Island Pepe Nero...to Bud Light and Michelob Ultra. Most brewpub don't bother with standard-issue beers, but here there's respect for all shades of the beer-drinking spectrum. We'll raise a mug of Pabst Blue Ribbon to 'em for that.

The Crowd

Early in the day, there are families seated at the tables, including babes in prams, with Mom and Dad catching a brew and a burger after a day shopping the discount streets of Downtown. As the day stretches into night, the club kids appear, thirsty for an IPA, hungry for some pulled pork. And at the shank's end of the night, there's the crowd from shows at Nokia and Staples - and especially from The Orpheum down the street (where Australian Pink Floyd recently performed).

The Vibe

There's no attitude at LA Brewing. The front of the house staff has been trained well to make everyone feel as if they're special. The lead hostess (a J-Lo doppelgänger) has a smile that lights up the whole block. A few more places like this, and Westsiders will gladly brave the Santa Monica Freeway for a taste of Downtown.